Cigano - Gear, Equipment & General Maintenance.

Below are comments regarding gear and maintenance onboard Cigano, our Cabo Rico 34. Failures, successes, problems and solutions as well as regular maintenance will be noted. This section is updated frequently and is recorded in reverse chronological order - the most recent comments are at the top.
>>FYI - Valuable seasickness information - PHAC Seasickness.pdf

2017: We hired our mechanic to replace the black exhaust hose, which is brittle and hard as a rock. Where it went through the large glassed-in conduit, in the port locker under the cockpit, he had to use a machete to pry it loose. I'm glad to give that job to someone else. The only notable improvement is in emotional tranquility. More stripping and varnishing this summer and fall. We're switching to Epifanes conventional clear varnish, hoping for improved results over Flagship and the West Marine fast dry stuff.

We had an experience recently that is worth mentioning. In heavy conditions last season, we burried the bow a couple of times. We were motoring directly into large seas due to a narrow seaway with shoal hazards both to port and starboard so motor-sailing was out of the picture. During one of the big plunges, our decks became completely flooded on both sides, then the water flowed aft as the bow pulled up and recovered, filling the back porch/deck up to the caprail. On the second plunge, the starboard propane locker cover latch released and the nearly empty, lightweight, aluminum propane cylinder launched out of the locker into the air, due to flooding the locker. As it was not connected, the loose cylinder nearly went over the stern rail and overboard. It is rare to motor directly into large seas, however, under these circumstances, we realized that it's essential to assure that our propane locker latch is functioning properly, and the cover is solidly closed. Secondly, it might be a good idea to secure the tank with a light line if it happens to be empty or nearly so. Remarkably, our cockpit stayed completely dry through this event.

2016: We replaced the Yanmar engine mounts - they were in rough shape, corroded, crumbling, and clearly past their useful life. We hired this job out to a mechanic who seems to have ramge of motion in body joints beyond the standard human issue. The engine runs with notably less vibration. We had the cover restitched over the summer — hoping for no more seam rips. The sun really does a number on threads, both on the cover and boat canvas.

2015: On the first trip from the haulout well to the dock, the throttle broke just after I hit reverse to stop. No damage occurred during docking — timing was fortunately in our favor. Replacing the cable should not have been a terribly difficult job, but salt water corrosion from years in the Gulf made it very time consuming due to all the components that had to be removed. I did the prudent thing, and replaced the shift cable as well. The project took on a life of it's own. I learned the after doing it the hard way, that the throttle lever could be removed easily by placing it in the right position, but there was no mention of that in the manuals and data sheets. This was another big year for varnish — a full week of it.

2014 September
I ripped out an 18" seam section of the winter cover - repaired it by hand. Winterizing the new fresh water filter system for the first time was a snap. It's a well designed device. The strong track made removing the main sail difficult because the track slipped down during the process. The friction fastening method at the track bottom is less than perfect. I will devise something to prevent this in the future.

2014 August
After having used the StrongTrack over about 20 days of cruising we are declaring it a 100% success. The mainsail goes all the way to the top by hand and even downwind, we can raise the sail most of the way by hand. When the halyard is released it drops like a rock into the lazy jacks.

2014 July
We installed a Nature-Pure QC2 system by General Ecology, a drinking water filter with a dedicated tap. Until now, despite our inline filter, we have had issues with essence-of-fiberglass flavor in our tap water so we carried a 2 gallon drinking water dispenser on the galley counter and several large containers of drinking water stored in lockers. This new filter/tap works perfect with no flavor whatsoever dectable in the water. We are completely satisfied and now have an extra bit of valuable counter space.

May - June
We rebuilt the single-speed mainsheet winch and the three halyard winches on the mast. The Barient replacement pawls in the kit from Lewmar are marginal at best - the spring-notches/slots are shorter/at sharper angles forcing excess spring pressure on the pawls and several of the pawls were poor castings, with voids and are pitted - junk from China? We installed old pawls and replaced new springs only. We installed a Tides Marine StrongTrack mainsail track system on the mast. The StrongTrack went up and fastened easily - the sail modification is done and the first shakedown cruise leads us to believe that this was a very good choice - easy up, super easy down. I will give a full report on it later in the season. At splash time in late May, the engine was very hard and slow to start - after the past frigid winter which is still in evidence with much ice on the lake - I assume the Yanmar had ice in its veins.

2013 - Icom VHF crashed after a few years - won't receive. We went back to Standard Horizon with an AIS this time. This required a trip up the mast with a new AIS compatible antenna. We will repair the Icom and reinstall it as a backup. After several tel conversations and associated voltage measurements, we finally got Raymarine to repair the intermittently functioning windspeed instrument. But not before being told by the first repair rep that the masthead unit only was required, then being asked for the instrument-display as well by the second rep a month later, fortunately prior to sending the units in.

2012 July
It appears the mast collar rebedding was a success - the water flowing down the outside of the mast in the cabin has stopped. Our illusive three-year continuing problem with the alternator has been resolved. Voltage tests revealed an excessive drop (>0.75 volts) between the negative side of the batteries and the main alternator negative lead. Carefully cleaning every connection (again) of corrosion and checking for tightness did nothing. Further searching finally revealed a faulty crimp on a major negative cable from the alternator to the back of the engine. The problem was only detectable after cutting away a shrink-tubing insulator covering the wire jacket and crimp fitting. The wire would have long since fallen out of the crimp, but the shrink tubing was heavy and stiff enough to intermittently make a good and sometimes marginal connection by holding the wire against the crimp lug, also making the connection feel fine and visually appear fine.

2012 June
Mast is up and interior wiring is underway. I cut the Spartite collar insert into pieces and we are using 6 of those in lieu of mast wedges because it fits the space perfectly. The mast collar has been rebedded - it was visibly obvious that water was traveling under the collar and running down the mast and probably into the headliner. This would explain the dripping we would notice from beneath the middle port onto the settee on the port side - the direction Cigano lists.

Mast work is now complete. As long as the mast wass down, we did most everything - added a of halyard and a wind instrument, replaced the incandescent AquaSignal tricolor/strobe with an OGM LED, replaced masthead sheaves and axles, and rewired the entire mast including a new heavier VHF coax cable. The original sheaves were plastic and are replaced by aluminum. The sheaves and axles are held in place by gravity and the downward tension of the halyards in tapered v-shaped slots as well as a cover plate. They should be easy to remove and replace, however, the stainless steel axles were solidly corroded in place in the aluminum slots. A few shots of penetrating lubricant and a couple of hours did the trick to break them loose. The masthead structure is welded to the mast and slopes upward towards the stern at about 15-20 degree angle. On top of that is a cast aluminum cover plate that keeps sheaves and axles in place and provides level surface for mounting Anchor light, etc. It fastens with two legs forward inserted in slots in the masthead and two machine screws at the aft section. There is also enough space on the level part of the cover plate for the mounting base of a wind instrument. Because the OGM LED fixture is so short compared to the original AquaSignal fixture, a two inch riser was fabricated to accommodate adequate visibility from aft. There are sheaves for four halyards forward and two aft. We may add an asymmetrical spinnaker soon. Sailmaker thought we wouldn't need a mast crane but I'm not so sure.

Mast down this fall for masthead sheave replacements and a new halyard - we plan to use it for an asymmetrical spinaker. We'll upgrade some lights and wiring as well. Both deck light and spreader floods have never worked. May add wind instruments. The mast is a heavy beast requiring 5 of us to carry it with difficulty.

Yanmar instrument panel type B is chirping occasionally with increased frequency. Oil pressure and water temp are okay. Tracked the chirp to a sail drive seal alert - we don't have a sail drive. I tried to isolate the wire in the engine room but I moved the wire harness and the noise stopped, so the conclusion is that the installer left the connection/plug exposed and it was grounding somewhere on the engine body. The alarm will probably restart at some future time - I will fix it then.
Refrigerator drain clogged. City water pressure failed to clear it. It required 120# of compressed air to clear the clog.

Attempts still continue to solve the problem of intermittent reduced output from alternator. When we consider engaging an expert, it magically cures itself.

Rebuilt the Monitor wind vane. Pilot shaft chain and many plastic parts (bearings, spacers, washers, etc.) were replaced due to serious UV deterioration.
Varnish work continues.

The chain on the pilot shaft on our Monitor wind vane is coming apart and the large plastic bearing spacers on the wheel adaptor are cracking from age and sun. Scanmar keeps a record of who currently owns their wind vanes, transfers ownership, and records what parts are purchased so they can provide the best possible customer service - a sign of a great company. The rep was very helpful on the phone when I ordered and was very familiar with their products and parts.

Still having alternator and/or voltage regulator issues - going to have to employ an expert.

Batteries seem to have recovered. Brightwork maintenance is calling us as usual - some day we will have to face it - not today. Removed the SSB - we never use it here.

Time for serious work to get ready for summer. The electrical problems are mounting. One battery seems to be acting up - strangely it's the cranking battery and not one of the house bank which get the most abuse. If we discover it is bad that would indicate we should replace the whole lot.

Repairing a few interior items at home - awaiting the warm spring weather. I began replacing some torn screens on the hatches. Here is an instance of Cabo Rico's tendency to overbuild everything (possibly but extremely unlikely the previous owner's work). Each 12"x12" screen has about 80 heavy-duty, oversized stainless steel staples holding it in place under the screwed-in teak trim strips. This fastening system is so exponentially greater than the strength of the screen itself that it could be considered foolish overkill. Pulling the staples out without damaging the teak frames is a major effort. At least I can't complain about poor quality. Maybe Cabo Rico got a bargain on a crate of staples.
Made some alterations to the battery compartment for better access. The alternator was showing signs of malfunction last summer - voltage into the batteries during charging is more than a full volt below what it should be. Connections have been cleaned to no improvement. A full electrical system evaluation may be looming on the horizon, however the problem is intermittent.


Some info about refinishing interior lacquer

2009/Jul This is a big year for upgrades. New Icom VHF, Raymarine radar, GPS, display and all associated components are now installed and working. Due to the distance from the helm to the raydome, we had to purchase a 10 meter radar extension cable. This cable is very heavy and the radar plugs are all large, requiring large holes and extra work feeding the wires. Wire size requirements for feeding power to the display, which also powers the radar is also heavy. We are hoping the extra power required does not seriously affect our battery life.

The VHF started acting up last year - discovered that the transmitting power drops every second that the mike is keyed on to the point of about 25% after about 7 seconds. Tried to replace the same relatively new Standard Horizon radio - no longer available. Nor can any of the new SH radios connect to our remote microphone, so we have to rerun the cables back to the helm. Time to re-evaluate . . . Ordered and installed a new Icom and at the same time we ordered new Raymarine radar, GPS, cockpit display and all related accessories - ouch $$$. But with our travel to the north end of the lake into the frequent fog, we felt it was prudent and necessary. Besides, our handheld Garmin GPS has been acting up. We still use charts extensively but the GPS is really handy for logging running fixes when you are alone at the helm on night-watch. It is also very helpful for finding an invisible harbor in heavy fog.
-So many projects - finally got out for a day sail on June 14. Janet threatened to sell the boat if we didn't leave the dock within 24 hours.

I completed the work associated with the garboard plug, countersinking the flange, etc. Replaced the provided square head plug with a countersunk square 3/8" drive plug - made it all flush with the hull.
-We are disappointed with the results of the Spartite mast seal/partner replacement. The polymer material seems like a great idea and probably works fine in areas where there is a more moderate annual temperature range. However, my assumption is that the expansion and contraction of the aluminum mast has caused the Spartite to move a bit due to mast length contraction in extreme cold northern temperatures. This has created a gap of 1/8"-1/4" between the Spartite and the top of the mast collar. I guess I will have to grind the stuff off and go back to the conventional partners. I need to re-bed the collar anyway and the Spartite prevents that as well unless the mast is removed.
-INTERIOR FINISHING TOUCHUP: We refinished some of the louvered locker doors at home as an experiment to try out various touch-up techniques. The best product we found for our purpose is padding lacquer which can be put on with a home-made pad rather than brushing. We use the French polishing technique to apply it. We wrap a piece of old T-shirt for absorbency inside a small piece of linen cloth. About 3 inches square works well. We pour the lacquer onto the pad and apply very thin coats, being careful never to stop the motion of the cloth on the wood. We use either a circular motion or a sweeping motion (lifting start and end) and cover a very small area at a time. You cannot use brushing lacquer or any other substitute for padding lacquer for French polishing unless you mix your own brew. When finished we will rub it all out with a very fine abrasive.
-I installed the new fuel shut-down solenoid. Splash was on Friday the 14th. Glad to be in the water and no longer climbing the ladder. Engine started and ran fine.
-I plan to fashion some teak boards to cover and improve the appearance of the mast step.

2009/Mar We brought a few teak items (cabinet doors, etc.) home for refinishing here. Wishing it would hurry and warm up - much work to do.

Ordered a new fuel shutoff solenoid directly from Cabo Rico. I had to do a few modifications to make it match the configuration of the old one, but it's now ready for installation.

We are researching ways to save and generate more power so we can extend our trips in remote areas. Many of the remote anchorages on Lake Superior are too sheltered to provide adequate wind for our wind generator. Solar is marginal as well due to losses of capacity when even a small portion of the panel is shaded. The boat is too small for a genset. What to do?
This fall my son helped me install the cover. Reduced the job from all day to three hours!
-The mast area leak has not gone away - very elusive. We will try re-bedding the deck collar when we pull the mast next season for our planned replacement of raydome and some wiring.

After sitting in a storage shed nearly three years, we bolted on our Monitor wind vane (named George) self-steering. What a great piece of gear. It did an admirable job of steering in all conditions except (as you'd expect) in light following winds. George steered better than either of us at the helm in most conditions including quartering seas. Future plans include connecting a very small tiller pilot to the vane for magnetic course steering to save power over the heavier consumption from our linear drive autopilot.

Our engine failed after changing the fuel filter - I installed a 2 micron by mistake instead of a 10 micron - too tight for our system. We are removing the 2 micron filters from the boat. We are trying to find a source for fuel shut-off solenoid. It's our second season without one. . . . I just found out Cabo Rico has several in stock but someone suggested a diesel parts supply shop so we'll try that first to avoid the shipping, time lag, and customs issues from Costa Rica.

Standard Horizon VHF not transmitting adequately - testing ongoing.
We continue sanding and spot varnishing - picking away at problem areas. Addressing brightwork issues promptly (when problem areas are small) will save much time and work overall. We will keep a couple of old fingernail-polish bottles on hand filled with varnish to do quick repairs of nicks.
-Dodger/bimini/zip-in connection has an open area on each side which allows rain water onto the cockpit seats near the companionway. Debate goes on whether to make a small pair of snap-in inserts to cover it.
-Research is ongoing for replacing nearly all electronics onboard. Raymarine will likely get our vote. Their customer service staff has been easy to deal with and their products have proven to be robust.
D&J's Helpful Hint: Quarter-inch thick sheets of closed cell packing foam make excellent pads for saving elbows, knees, etc. when working onboard and of course they have myriad other uses. They store easily and are almost as cheap as dirt.

More varnish on the exterior brightwork and soon we'll begin experimenting with the interior lacquer.
-Repaired the electric bilge pump (temporarily) - problem was a corroded rivet that disabled the inlet valve. Ordered rebuild parts, valves, diaphragm, etc.
-We added a hose clamp forward of PSS shaft seal. Contacted PYI regarding what to use as shaft seal emergency repair kit. Their representative suggested locking the drive shaft and closing damaged bellows if it occurs with self-amalgamating rubber tape, something we have plenty of onboard including a four inch roll. This sounds like a reasonable solution to us. The tape sticks to itself dry or wet. Most important though is our frequent checking and securing of anything near the drive shaft that could come loose and get tangled in the shaft, damaging the bellows.
-The mast leak may have repaired itself. We will look into the possibility that the leak has something to do with the condition of the boat when stored on the stands.

Varnishing brightwork has begun. The weather has been unusually cold so opportunities to lay down varnish have been scarce. We sanded and peeled away more than we should have but it appears to us that the bottom coat of varnish was put on a little thick by the prior caretaker and the first coat should have been thinner for better adhesion. We managed to get a thinned coat of Flagship varnish down on the touchup areas only a couple of hours before an unexpected squall blew up a bunch of sand and rain. The varnish had skimmed over but still holds a large amount of fine sand. So we will have to more steel wool work and sanding before the next coat than we planned.

Items pending:

  1. Interior and Exterior Brightwork: Time for some touchups. Based on our correspondence with Cabo Rico, Surlac (likely unavailable here) or Fabulon (alternate - available through Sherwin Williams) are the recommended choices for the interior finish. Our exterior brightwork is currently finished with Petit Z-Spar 2015 Flagship Varnish. We like the appearance so for now we will continue to use this for retouching until our research turns up something better.
  2. Teak cockpit seat is delaminating in one spot - screw, glue, and plug is the plan.
  3. Radar display has been removed. Research begins to choose a new integrated system combining GPS, radar, etc. We have never liked the location of the display. It was difficult to see from the helm and took up choice seating space in the saloon.
  4. A new electric bilge pump is forthcoming. Diaphragm pump failed during winterizing and I could not pump any antifreeze through. Even if it still works we will add an impeller style pump as a third backup.
  5. Engine shut-down solenoid must be replaced or manual shut-down control installed - searching for the correct part. We use a piece of rope in the interim.
  6. Repair fuel gauge (again) - not responding.
  7. Devise an emergency repair kit for the PSS shaft seal and add a hose clamp forward of the shaft-disk. - - (DONE)
  8. Some minor troubleshooting is needed on the main electrical panel gauges.
  9. Resolve leaking problem at mast partners.

Bilge pump issues are still on the table, removed, resealed intake/outlet tubes and replaced - still can't pull water out of bilge. Brightwork touchup has begun. Splashed on last weekend in May.

Visited Cigano on a horrible miserable spring day with 30 knot wind off the lake, temperature around freezing and horizontal snow and rain. The cover held up fine through the winter with a few new chafed areas but no tears. We found a lot of water collecting in the mast step, coming in at the through-deck and distributing itself all over. The Spartite seal has split or cracked a bit near the lip overhanging the collar. Time for a new boot. We may remove the Spartite and go back to wedges to center the mast. Batteries are still in fine shape. I'm hoping to return next weekend for some spring recommissioning

Haulout, winterize and cover: Everything went smoothly including the cover until the last item, emptying the bilge and pumping antifreeze through the bilge pumps. Both pumps failed - I couldn't get the electric pump to work at all and I finally was forced to tear apart the manual Henderson and removing a clog. The electric will have to wait until next year - it may get freeze damage over winter but we were considering replacing it because of its age anyway. I am also contemplating the addition of a third electric bilge pump for major emergencies. The emergency that scares us the most is the failure of our PSS shaft seal.

Repairs to canvas cover are complete.

Fall- Fresh water system: After evaluating the first season's winter decommissioning we will be making some improvements to the plumbing system this fall to help facilitate winterizing which has never been done to this boat prior to winter 2006/2007.

ABI ports: Screens are showing serious signs of age - we're replacing them this year. The larger port's screens are available through ABI distributors, however, we have been unable to locate replacements for the three smaller forward screens. ABI has initially claimed that they did not manufacture this size port even though the ABI logo is clearly stamped into the inside stainless steel face of each port. Hmmm.

Fuel gauge: Stopped working partway through our two-week trip to Isle Royale. Gauge is only one year old.

Shut-down solenoid: Engine mounted electronic fuel shut-down solenoid began working intermittently for a few days then not at all. It appears to be original Cabo Rico equipment. 12 volts were detected at connecting-wires so solenoid needs replacement - not a Yanmar part. For the time being we tied a cord to the fuel shut off lever and pull it from the back door of the engine room for shut-down.

Electric Bilge pump: The automatic activator of the bilge pump was not working. While tracking that problem down, We discovered that the brass/bronze hose-connector-tubes on the pump body were so corroded that when I applied just a little twist on the hose, the connectors snapped off cleanly. A call to Jabsco revealed that for some reason they do not sell these very inexpensive brass parts separately, but rather, you have to buy the entire base assembly which costs over $200. The Jabsco representative could not explain why these parts were not available. I made my own pieces out of thin-wall PVC and fit and fastened them with stainless steel machine screws tapped into the bottom of the base. We also replaced the pump drive belt and the vibration dampening rubber mounts.

Furuno Radar (original eqpt): Not working - While inspecting drive belt in radome, a broken wire was discovered that was so thin it could not be manipulated with the available tools without fear of additional damage. More trips up the mast will be needed. A new radar is in our future but we have to settle on our primary nav instrument/display manufacturer for easy system integration.

Manual Bilge Pump: Pump was stiff last year and this spring it was nearly impossible to get more than a single cycle of the handle before it locked up. We found a 180 degree bend in the hose inside the cockpit coaming that caused a very tight kink. Replaced a 3 foot section of non-flex hose with flexible, connected with a double ended barbed fitting. Problem solved 06/09/07.

Primary Winches: Cleaning & rebuilding winches. Installing new springs/pawls, grease, oil, etc. With no records of work done by previous owners, it is possible that these have never been rebuilt. They were filthy and pawls were very stiff to the point of not grabbing.

*Fuel starvation problem: Our Racor fuel suction-pressure gauge shows very elevated pressure. The engine shutdown one time coincidentally 300 yards outside the harbor entrance. Subsequently, fuel filters were changed several times as well as the strainer. Pressure still climbs too high, If we apply two or three squeezes to the in-line primer, the suction pressure drops to near 0, then slowly builds again. We replaced Yanmar fuel lift pump which didn't help. The engine runs fine but suction pressure is still high. We tried bypassing fuel diverter valve and in-line primer and completely cleaned Racor housing/assembly. We switched from 2 micron filter (which we were told was too tight) to 10 microns. Again, pressure is still way higher than it should be (in the red zone) but engine runs fine. Some folks are suggesting we should just put a big piece of black tape over the gauge.
D&J's Helpful Hint. Disposable diapers make great absorbent rags and can be closed up with the built-in tape to contain fuel or oil or whatever.

Canvas Winter Cover

Canvas Cover: Cigano spent her first winter on the hard. We bought a cover from Fairclough Sailmakers last fall and so far despite some chafing problems, we like it a lot. Photos and info about the cover.

Interior finish: We noticed that over winter, our dinette table had lots of tiny crazing which was not there before. The only thing we can assume is that the moisture from summer, and especially the from the previous years in the humid Gulf of Mexico, could not easily find a way out from under the varnish. When winter's freeze hit there was still moisture trapped there and by expanding, it caused the finish to craze.

Waterheater tank leak - corrosion
Water Heater: Leaking (Seaward 6 gallon S/S 2001 model) water heater. Leak is on the bottom and appears due to corrosion from salt water getting into the insulation where it contacts the tank. At the recommendation of the Seaward rep., we replaced it with galvanized vs. stainless steel version of same unit at a substantially lower price.

2007/May Wilcox Critenden Skipper II Head: Cleaned heavy calcium buildup from all waste chambers and installed complete rebuild kit - a huge improvement. We can now see why some call these the king of marine toilets.

We had the cabin cushions reupholstered this winter, they look great.

Haulout - Zincs show no signs of decay - obviously not an issue in fresh water.
. . . Winterizing - this is the first winterizing ever for this boat, and my first for this boat. It is a bit daunting because no-one has given it any previous thought. The systems have not been set up favorably for this task by the previous owners. Some things will be changed next time around.

Added midship cleat on genoa track - a huge help in shorthanded or single-handed docking.

2006/Jun Blower not working - wiring problems.

Galley Sink: Replaced faucet and all drain connectors. Drain connectors were corroded and because the bottom of the sink is below waterline when even slightly heeled to port, we wanted to reduce the risk of water flooding there.

Autohelm 6000: Not working. Replaced the faulty flux gate compass. Fixed the problem.

Headsail: Restiched UV sun cover due to UV decayed threads.

Respectable engine access
The engine was shaken out of alignment during the truck-trip from south Texas to Lake Superior. Realignment has been an exercise in frustration, but with the help of Nigel Calder's - Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual, it is pretty close. I was able to make all the adjustments with our standard tool kit. That means I had to reach every mounting and adjusting bolt from above and below. It was not easy but it was a one-person job, aside from asking Janet to hand me a wrench or two.

Our Yanmar 3GM30F is a 3 cylinder 27 horsepower diesel. It is a great engine but we have had a few minor problems. It was replaced in 2000 before we owned it when a marina staff tried repeatedly to start it and eventually flooded and damaged the engine with seawater. Some original older components we not replaced at the time and are now showing signs of age, but no serious problems are evident. Because we feel that the boat is a bit underpowered when motoring directly into heavy seas, and this may be due partly to the propeller suitability, we are considering switching to a Max-Prop or similar in lieu of the 16x12 3-blade fixed prop. This would in theory add a bit more pitch control and give us better grip when in reverse.

We installed a Spartite mast sealer and stabilizer kit but we still get a little water dripping down the mast below the collar despite being installed exactly to specs. Maybe the problem is due to something else?

Prep for shipping to Minnesota - a huge job - three+ days dawn to dusk and working inside after dark. A 250 foot roll of 24" wide foam and miles of stretch-wrap plastic and duct tape secured everything including the mast and rigging. Hauled as many items north as possible via rental truck to keep chafing and damage during transit to a minimum. Cross Country Boat Transport did a great job and was on time. Cliff's experience was clearly a benefit.

In an effort to free a corroded dog on the opening port in the head, I snapped the stud base clean off the port. Too much leverage with too heavy a tool I guess. Now we will have to remove the port and have it re-welded - ugh.


2006/Apr Replaced fuel gauge. Complete bottom job/paint and new zincs.