Cigano's log & travels - 2009
March/April 2009
We made a couple of visits to collect teak items to refinish at home
May 2009
A cold and miserable spring delayed the start of commissioning. Completed the work associated with the garboard plug, refinished some of the teak with padding lacquer - see gear and maintenance for details.
June 2009
The cold pattern continued in June as well. This helped to make more tolerable, our mandatory time in the harbor installing new gear, lacquering and varnishing. We are installing a new Raymarine system including radar, GPS and display. We don't expect that Martha, our old autopilot will interface but that's of no concern. Finally got out for a brief sail late in the month. We applied for and received our I-68 (Canadian Border Boat Landing Program) Permit from US Customs and our RABC (Remote Area Border Crossing) Permit from Canada. This will make things a lot easier on our pending trip.
July 2009
We're still installing gear and building the associated mounting systems. The radar/GPS installation project has taken on a life of of it's own consuming several weekends, much consulting, and multiple trips up the mast. Over the Independence Day holiday we had many visitors and helpers. We motored out for a few hours of fun but mostly worked on the "project". We finally finished and made it out into the islands mid-month for a few days of great sailing. We lost Martha for a day due to wires accidentally yanked loose during the "project". We are rushing to finish everything in time for our July/August trip to the Canadian north shore. GPS was acting up a bit but seems stable now.
07/24
Vacation begins, loading provisions and preparations. All gear is ready just in time with a few final gear purchases, installations and adjustments, and an extra fuel jug tied on the back porch.
Off to the Slate Islands on Saturday early afternoon. We planned the same arrival schedule as several other boats from our marina and the Apostle Islands. The others gathered in the Apostle islands and left together - we left directly from Siskiwit Bay. We feared another long motor slog but by 2000 we had sails up and sailed fast through the night, sometimes over 7 knots. Had a close encounter (VHF mic in hand and ready) with a following ship outside of shipping lanes during the night despite our radar reflector. Later the wind dropped and we motorsailed in very sloppy seas. Dave awoke from his nap feeling sick. The wind thankfully returned as did Dave's health.
A small, very frail, and derelict bird joined us who certainly would have otherwise perished. Throughout the next 24 hours it ate every bug onboard, sat on Janet's head and Dave's shoulder and pooped everywhere else. We named him Tubby because of how much weight he appeared to gain during his visit.
Sailed past Isle Royale and Passage Island. Motored through much of the next night. We were out of shipping lanes so watches were more casual. Joined Landfall and Anthem at the entrance to the Slate Islands early morning, about 40 hours after departure. We had to slow down significantly during the night because of the fast sailing of the previous day to avoid arriving several hours before dawn. Tubby departed sometime after dawn this morning once the island was clearly within his reach. We crept our way into the islands and rafted with Landfall (Dennis and Pat) and Anthem (Gaye, Dan and Charlie) anchored in McGreevy Harbor/Pikes Bay on Patterson Is. A forth boat, Vixen, was supposed to join us but apparently had trouble or changed plans. After a flurry of anchoring activity, the crews of all three boats went below for a nap. Upon awaking we began exploring this beautiful all weather harbor and the area nearby. The Slate Islands are a Canadian provincial park with an unknown number of private "safe harbor" cabins which must be left unlocked and open to public use by government decree. Some are in disrepair and others well maintained. The area has varied terrain, steep cliffs, lowlands, beaches and is composed of two large islands and a half dozen small ones and a dozen or more very small all formed by a crashing meteor. Back to the anchorage, we decided to move the raft because one of the two other Canadian boats left the anchorage, opening up some space. Just as we hauled the anchor to move the 3-boat raft under Landfall's engine, their dinghy painter was sucked into the propeller and stopped the engine cold. The two outside boats moved the raft, but now this meant many cold dives under the boat for Dennis in frigid water, good practice we guess for someone planning a trip to Antarctica next year. Eventually the line was cleared and lessons were learned. For cocktail hour, we invited a wonderful couple, Frank and Margaret (from Elliot Lake, Ontario) on Stella Maris, a Grampian 30 that they have sailed for three months a year for 35 years around Lakes Huron and Superior, bringing up four children onboard in the process. Margaret claims she is going to quit sailing when she turns 65 because she wants to build a deck and have barbecues at their home. Margaret got an infection in her finger. Nurse-Gay provided some antibiotics but they are heading for Rossport to be near medical facilities. Dinner onboard Landfall with all.
After a peaceful night, the wind began building, clouds were piling up, Landfall's anchor dragging (another fire-drill), and we had to split up the party after several unsuccessful attempts to reset. The anchor was fouled with two huge logs from all the swinging and the three boats windage was now just to much. Happily this didn't occur at midnight. Our alternator is now beginning to act up a bit - undercharging compared to it's usual output. We will delve into this problem when we go to Rossport and can be tied to a dock since it requires some disassembly, we'd prefer not to disable the engine during these strong, anchor-dragging, wind gusts we are getting. With alternator in mind, painter in prop, anchor dragging, and now gloom and rain falling, and a few other incidents, Janet concluded that the stars are not quite properly aligned at the moment. She did however see two caribou today in separate sightings. We decided to spend an extra day here after which the sun came out and all is rosy. Another Canadian boat arrived, "Saudades". Dinner with everyone onboard Anthem.
Sailed out the east side of the islands then NW toward the north shore. The seas were choppy and confused with some wind the whole way to Schreiber Channel. Things settled down once inside the channel for a nice sail to Rossport. Arrived around 1600 (1700 local time) and broke out the cocktails. Had a conversation with Frank who arrived yesterday. Internet for the first and last time. The dock hand said we were the first boat at the fuel dock in three days - a very slow season here. When we asked, the young lady from Tasmania who was using her computer at the dock picnic table recommended the Rossport Inn, but then she admitted it was an unfair question because she works there. We had an excellent, albeit rather expensive, dinner and conversed between tables with the two other Canadian couples there - atypical uncrowded conditions. A CPR train comes by often and blows a loud whistle.
Chilly next morning. Fuel, pump-out, dockage and a diet Coke, $106 CAD. Joined Margaret and Frank for morning coffee and a fun conversation before some work on the battery and alternator connections. Charging seems okay, not great - we are not convinced and confident. Departed for the short trip to Old Man's Pocket anchorage on the south side of Salter Island. We anchored on short scope and took a stern line to shore. Took the dinghy and explored the nearby islands, discovered the Harry Hilton, a hidden cabin in a tiny cove on Harry Island. It was a beautiful calm evening followed with occasional showers and thunderstorms later. All nearby islands are heavily forested, virtually impossible to walk in and explore without getting hopelessly tangled and/or lost. Much of the walking would be straight up and down cliffs anyway. Very quiet night at anchor.
Bow anchor and stern line easy to retrieve. Motored to Battle Island, dropped the hook and walked to the lighthouse. The expected friendly keeper was away, probably in town for supplies, but his dog, a young golden lab was there to greet us. We missed our chance to tour the lighthouse. There was an old 1940s vintage Chevy pickup abandoned in the woods along the trail. Motored out with wind on the nose to CPR Slip where Doug and Diane greeted us with their fishing dinghy to guide us into the tricky very tight entrance. They could tell that we were new because of our approach angle. Had to take a 180 degree turn around a gravel spit while hugging it within a few meters. Docked with the help of Earl and Claudia on Northern Dawn. Our stern was hanging out far past the end of the dock due to the shallow water. The front of our boarding gate is at the end of the dock while our keel is a couple of inches from grounding. Met Doug, Diane, Chuck (who assembled his steel boat in Corny a few years back), Murray, Donna, Marley the dog, and Earl and Claudia's dog Saba and reacquainted ourselves with our old friends on the Jolly Roger, Jim, Darlene, Denny and Barb from Black River Harbor. We hiked to the lookout - a beautiful walk through a moss-covered woods and a few steep sections with ropes provided - and arrived while the fog had cleared. What a view! We signed the guest book on the pedestal placed there by an ambitious soul named Helge. We later joined the others around the bonfire and took a late sauna. Many thanks to those who have made the effort to turn this into a really great gathering spot. It is a favorite destination for local boaters and open to all - a requirement of most of the island docks and buildings in the Canadian Islands.
August 1 2009 . . . Canada
Strong wind with swells and chop on the big lake. We strongly considered leaving but eventually decided to wait another day for improved weather. Meanwhile two more boats arrived. We met Rachel, Nick, and their daughter Nadia, an engineering student. Also Dave, his wife for whom we didn't learn her name and their two daughters. Lots of socializing through the intermittent rain squalls all afternoon and evening. Alternator still seems "okay" after charging the batteries. Glad we stayed put - nasty, gusty weather all through the night.
We learned of some interesting places to visit from Rachel, helped jockey several boats about the docks, and after a last look at the lake, decided to leave ourselves for Otter Cove. After good-bys to all we tip-toed our way through the rocky shoals and islands near CPR Slip and Agate Island with confused swells and waves. Dave got in trouble for insisting on going above Lamb Island and through a rock-strewn passage in order to reach a preferred route. Once anchored in Otter Cove, we dinghied to the (Otter?) river spilling into the very sheltered bay and walked to the waterfall, then to the beautiful inland lake a half mile or so north. Janet went for a swim. There are mosquitoes here as well as in the woods near CPR Slip. It was a beautiful, calm, sunny afternoon and evening and for once it reached into the low 70s F (22-22 C), the warmest since our arrival on the north shore. So we sat outside a lot and soaked up the warmth - a rarity - then a fast cool after sunset. Mosquito intrusion during the night required sealing gaps here and there.
Another typically cold morning. We are now thinking about the sequence of events that will bring us back to Corny, calculating weather-days and crossing some intended stops off our itinerary. Our tiny heater barely takes the chill off at first but we wait long enough the cabin gets comfy. We sailed out of Otter Cove through the island maze toward Loon Harbor. After an exploratory cruise between Borden and Glad (local's name) Islands, we anchored between Borden and Spain. After settling in we greeted Earl and Claudia who arrived after us, then we headed south in the dinghy, exploring the narrow channels between islands. Eventually we discovered the hidden sauna that Rachel told us about on Spain Is. We spent several hours warming it up, gathering replenishing wood and enjoying the beautiful location. Life doesn't get much better than a nice hot sauna in the middle of nowhere in the Canadian wilderness. One would be highly unlikely to find this place unless you knew where to look. Upon returning to the boat a third boat had arrived, the 55' Superior Lady from Bayfield WI, where we joined Claudia and Earl and the crew of Superior Lady for cocktails and conversation. The owners, Rich and Nancy live in Knife River, our former port. We broke another shear pin on the outboard, something that happens too often because it shifts so hard - replaced it with a cut-off SS bolt, perhaps not the best idea but at least it will last a while. It was a gusty night spinning at anchor and a noise (probably the rode rubbing on the bobstay) made Janet think our rudder was aground in the middle of the night. Restless sleep tortured her until dawn.
We left Loon Harbor, one of the most beautiful anchorages we've seen, and sailed most of the way to Tee Harbor. Dave's camera fell off the nav table and stopped working - dang. We crept into the east side of the harbor, Janet steered while Dave snatched a mooring from the two that were still open. We dinghied to the beach where we listened to some campers shrieking at the top of their lungs while trying to swim in the frigid Tee Harbor water. We began the hike up the trail toward the foot of the Sleeping Giant but after we calculated our hike time, we would be hiking out after dark so we shortened the hike after the trail started going up. Snuck to the base of the "closed" Chimney Trail to the summit for a steep look up. Back at the boat we chatted with Jim on Nokomis from Madeline Is. We are in a very gusty location with strong winds blasting down off the cliffs of the giant. The mooring float kept clunking against the hull and bobstay giving Janet another sleep-deprived night.
Dave slept through all the noise then unwrapped the badly twisted mooring lines from the all-night winds and we headed off to Thompson Island. The attempt to sail across Thunder Bay was met with fickle winds mostly on the nose. Got in a quick cell call to dispel any rumors of our dissapearance at sea. Arrived at Thompson Island while only one other boat was at the dock. Picked a spot that would fit our boat on the curved structure but with the help of folks on the dock directing us in, as we were turning toward the dock we hit a rock, stopped the boat dead, the whole rig shuddered, we backed up and hit it again. We probably left a bit of fiberglass and bottom paint at the bottom of the harbor. Approached at another angle and made it. Within an hour the dock was full, boats were rafting, and the sauna was cooking. Earl and Claudia arrived shortly after us - we think they are following us. Chatted with everyone including a Canadian stand-up comedian and show-producer, took a walk to the shale beach on the lake-side of the bay, marveled at someone's effort at constructing a model of an Anasazi cliff dwelling village, hid under trees from several rain showers, then the ladies hit the sauna first. Rain continued through dinner but the dock has a covered picnic shelter which kept everyone dry. Late night bonfire and a full moon. A very cold night again. We are aware that we are south-shore warm-water sissies but even the hardy Canadians told us that the weather has been unseasonably cold and miserable. They said that most years you could be swimming but this year the water was way too cold, which helped to cool the air as well.
Cleared Thompson Island dock with no rock impacts. A cold motor all day toward Grand Marais with light wind on the nose. Called in our arrival to US Customs as soon as we got a cell signal. We were happy to be at the dock in Grand Marais where we could warm up the cabin (took several hours) and our heat-deprived bodies with the electric heater. Had a good dinner at the Angry Trout. We were tied to the marina fuel dock bow in but decided to swing the boat 180 degrees due to wind forecast for tomorrow. The area around the dock is very shallow - we had to bury our rudder in the bottom to allow enough swing room as we tried to back away from the dock - could barely clear our bow to make the turn. After moving we had a conversation with Jim and Kathy from Nokomis. Bow thrusters were blasting at 0200 - no sleep for the weary.
Departed Grand Marais in the morning expecting to take advantage of strong easterly wind forecast to blast across on a broad reach for Corny. Instead we motor-sailed and motored most of the way ending with wind on the nose and old swells on the stern quarter. Late afternoon arrival in Corny on our first hot day in over two weeks. Vacation over.
Onboard for a weekend with Alex, Beth and two dogs - Coby the Golden Retriever and Lena the Miniature Dachshund/Terrier. What a crew. The weather was great although a bit cool. Sailing was good and the dogs were good sports. We bought a pink polka-dot life jacket for Lena. The GPS is acting up again, cutting out whenever it feels like it. After realizing the danger of a remark about how well the toilet has been working Dave quickly touched wood, but to no avail, on Sunday it clogged.
Spent a weekend unclogging the toilet and hoses - my favorite job (dn). Still heavy deposits of ocean salt crystals in the diverter valve that had to be chipped away. Finally got to the bottom of the intermittent GPS failures. The GPS signal wire was broken inside near the receiver. Removed a short section and now it works great.
Sept 09
Liz, Jake, Andrea S onboard with Sebastion the big dog. Sandy, wet boat but the dog was well behaved. Anchored for a night at York Island - surprisingly the first time we've spent a night there despite its close proximity to port. Warm and pleasant but little wind.
Lorraine P joined us Friday night and David P came on Saturday. We spent the evening visiting Sand Island and dinner out on the lake. Last hurrah before haulout next week. Warm and pleasant again, finally getting August weather but virtually no wind.
Haul out was four warm mid-September days of the usual winterizing, covering, etc. An early haul out this year - our other life is getting in the way. Alex helped again with cover - many thanks!. We tore the cover during installation. It will need a bit of repair next spring. The damage to the keel from the Rock in Thompson Island Harbor was minimal - a tribute to Cabo Rico's solid construction.

^ Siskiwit Bay Marina and the town harbor, Cornucopia, Wisconsin. ^

^ Tubby ^

^ Entering the Slate Islands from the west. ^

^ Triple-raft - Slates ^

^ Near Rossport, Ontario ^

^ Rossport harbor area ^

^ Our friends from Elliot Lake, ON - Margaret and Frank ^

^ Downtown Rossport ^

^ Anchorage - Old Man's Pocket ^
^ Battle Island ^

^ Battle Island ^

^ CPR Slip ^

^ CPR Slip - lookout trail ^

^ CPR Slip - lookout trail ^

^ CPR Slip - lookout trail ^

^ Along CPR Slip lookout trail ^

^ Place to contemplate departure ^

^ Otter Cove ^

^ Otter Cove ^

^ Falls - Otter Cove ^

^ At Otter Cove Falls ^

^ Hidden sauna - Spain Island ^

^ Spain Island anchorage ^

^ Channel - Spain/Borden Islands ^

^ The great wall of Simpson Island ^
^ Thompson Is. dock - sauna in the distance (video frame clip) ^
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